INTRODUCING ANOTHER PET TO YOUR HORSE:

Horses are more than social animals, they are herd animals, and such require the company of their own kind in order to be truly balanced and content.  For this reason, it is strongly advised that any horse be given the opportunity to join a herd or at least to have the companionship of another equine.

While those that are left in isolation will readily form an attachment with other species, be it cat, dog, goat, or human, the chance to be able to communicate with their own kind and to derive a sense of fellowship and security from their presence far outweighs the sensory distraction afforded by other types of animals.

There are a few notable exceptions to the above, primarily when it comes to horses with particular health concerns or that are reaching a certain age, but even in these instances it is best that social opportunities be managed rather than done away with altogether.

Quick Links to Page Contents:

• Best Practices
• Introducing a New Horse
• Horses & Dogs
• Horses & Cats
• Horses & Other Species
• Co-Habitation vs Separation

BEST PRACTICES:

When introducing a new horse to an existing herd or to a predatory animal like a dog, it is always best to manage the introduction and to do so gradually, allowing each animal to become habituated to the presence and the smell of the other.  It is also important that you have a good understanding of each species’ body language so that you can discern any sign of anxiety or aggression in either animal and ensure that it is redirected in order to return the animal to a neutral emotional state as quickly as possible.

If possible, partition off a part of the field or enclosure so that the newcomer is physically separated from the established animal but that they are still able to see and smell each other.  This barrier should not be an electric or barbed fence that may cause distress or injury to either animal, for this can only create a negative association to the presence of the party.

Gradually introduce the newcomer to each member of the herd separately, beginning with the herd member that showed the most affiliative gestures to the newcomer over the fence-line, by removing that horse and placing it in the same enclosed area as the newcomer.  Be aware that some horses that may appear aggressive when introduced over a barrier may be calmer when given full access to the other animal, but for these horses it is best to isolate them from their herd first, as the psychological affect of being removed from their familiar equine companions will make them more amenable to unrestrained interaction with the newcomer.

If you are fortunate enough to have more than one enclosure or paddock available to you, then you may wish to hold these initial one-on-one introductions on neutral ground by having made that area out-of-bounds to the existing herd for a period before the introductions take place.  It is important that this area be large enough so that each animal has the opportunity to move away and maintain a comfortable distance from the other, coming together to graze or to sniff the other when they feel comfortable to do so.

There are different approaches to introducing a new horse versus introducing another species, such as a dog or cat, to an existing horse or herd of horses, which we will now consider in turn.

INTRODUCING A NEW HORSE:

A lot of this will depend on both your stable’s facilities as well as the dynamics within your existing herd of horses.  As noted above, having the space to manage one-on-one introductions before turning out the new horse into an existing herd would be the preferred option.  Having ample space for the newcomer to keep a comfortable distance from the established horses, as well as ensuring that resources – be they feeding troughs, buckets of water, or shelters – are spread out and easily accessible so that no encroachment into another’s space becomes necessary, are also vital to instilling harmonious co-habitation.

Keeping tension to a minimum is important, but that is not to say that a disagreement may not occur.  For this reason it is recommended that shoes be removed from horses that are being introduced to one another.  A warning kick from an unshod hoof will cause less injury than the impact of a hoof with a shoe on it.

While you may decide to introduce each herd-member to the new horse in turn, equally you may decide to partner up the newcomer with an individual from that herd in order to foster a friendship that will carry through to the others when introduced.  Maintain a routine of keeping the same two horses together in a large enough enclosure for a period of two weeks, as this will help to cement a bond between them that will then help the newcomer to settle in with the other horses when both are turned out with the rest of the herd.

If you intend to ride your new horse, you may want to consider riding him out with each member of the herd separately or in groups of three so that they may become accustomed to one another while out on the trail.  Herds are established and maintained through grazing and moving together, so utilise both to help integrate your newcomer.

HORSES & DOGS:

Not every horse will enjoy the company of a dog, and not every dog will respond positively to the presence of a horse.  Some horses may exhibit aggression or fear toward a dog while certain breeds of dog may find the impulse to herd or chase a horse irresistible.

Introduce each to the other’s scent at first, rewarding for calm behaviour.  Only once this has been achieved should you consider bringing them into each other’s visual proximity.  The dog should be kept on a leash at all times, and not be let off until it has mastered the five basic commands: Sit, stay, down, come, and leave.

Note the reaction of the dog to your horse.  Is it curious, excited, nervous, or predatory?  Of course you will want to avoid the latter at all cost, but even an excited or nervous dog may bark at or nip a horse, which would be inimical to fostering positive canine-equine relations!  So be sure to reward only calmness during first introductions.

Note the reaction of your horse to the dog.  Is he curious, aggressive, or fearful?  Any instinctive reaction to flee may initiate in the dog the response to chase, and any aggressive or territorial behaviour might equally evoke a fear-aggressive reply.  It is therefore best that the horse, while being secured in his own paddock, have plenty of room to approach and to move away at his own leisure.  Strong friendships are not built overnight, but take time.

Be sure to build positive associations between each animal.  This may involve doling out treats while they are together, so long as the energy between them is good at the time.  Perform exercises that involve your dog, such as cementing the training of the five basic commands, as mentioned above, while in the presence of your horse, providing plenty of praise and reward.  Horses are inquisitive creatures and, even if they are not directly involved in the training, they will enjoy the show!

When you do come to let your dog off the leash in the presence of your horse, be sure to remain calm yourself.  Monitor their interactions, and return your dog to the leash should any sign of overexcitement or tension manifest itself.  Over time and by maintaining a solid routine, both horse and dog will begin to feel relaxed in each other’s company, at which point one may begin to see the beginnings of a beautiful friendship.

HORSES & CATS:

Dogs are naturally social, whereas cats tend to be territorial, and so your approach to introducing your cat to a horse, or vice versa, will differ from that of your dog to a horse.  What cats and dogs do have in common is that they rely heavily on scent, and so introductions should always be made first through the nose.

More than likely if you have a barn or a stable, or are leasing space in one, then the horses are already in situ, in which case their odour will already be present.  Remove some of your horse’s bedding hay or used blanket and take it back home to where you will be housing your cat.  Allow the cat to explore the scent, positively rewarding both curiosity and a calm demeanour around the hay or blanket.  When it comes to feeding, place your cat’s bowl in the vicinity of the horse’s scent, and gradually close the gap.

Employ a similar desensitisation technique to introducing your cat’s scent to the horses by bringing used cat blankets to the stable, draping them over the stable door or, if you’re concerned that your horse might nibble on the blanket, rub the scent over the door rim.  Again, build positive associations to the scent by treating your horse as he calmly inspects the area.

Visual introductions should be managed slowly, first at a distance and where the horse is usually walked in-hand as opposed to free roaming.  The ideal space, therefore, would be the livery yard, when horses are being escorted between the stable and paddock.  Initially keep your cat in its crate, positioned some distance away from the horses and preferably somewhere high up so that it has a secure vantage point.  Once the horses are all turned out, this is an excellent time to then allow your cat to explore the stable area, distracting him with games and treats only in safe areas, such as outside the loose boxes.

Find a safe space in the stable or barn that only your cat will have access to, and feed him there as well as providing familiar bedding from home.  After a couple of weeks, introduce your cat to each of the horses while they are secure in their loose boxes, again rewarding each for curiosity and calmness.

Not all cats are suited for barn-style living.  Those that have been brought up in the city or that have never been introduced to large animals may find the entire process too daunting.  As stated at the beginning, cats are intensely territorial, and if they do not feel comfortable around the scent of a horse then even having their own safe space within the stable may not be enough to settle them in, and you may run the risk of your cat venturing off for pastures new, or at least to one that does not contain a horse!

HORSES & OTHER SPECIES:

If you cannot afford to maintain the upkeep of a companion equine for your trusty steed, what better companion could your horse wish for than another ruminant companion, like a goat, a sheep, or even a cow?  After all, they too are prey animals, used to living in groups and sharing a similar grazing routine.

However, this should not mean that you should spend any less time ensuring proper introductions are made and that each animal is properly acclimated to the presence of the other before being left unsupervised.

Again, introduce each animal to the other by first allowing each to sniff the other while in the safety of separate paddocks or with a fence-line between them.  Gauge each one’s reactions to the presence of the other and reward any positive responses.  Be mindful of avoidance as a coping mechanism for your horse to deal with the presence of the sheep.  It is fine if he should acknowledge their presence and then carry on with his business, but if he is actively avoiding the fence-line then this may pose an issue were the two animals to be placed together.

Goats can do serious damage to your horse with their horns, but equally a horse can seriously injure a goat or a sheep with a kick, so when you do eventually allow each into the other’s space be observant for any posturing or threatening body language from either party.

Remember that while sheep and goats may be cheaper to maintain and require less time on your part, they will nevertheless require regular check-ups from a qualified veterinarian and will have their own separate feeding requirements.  This is because those feeds that have been specially formulated for horses can be harmful to other ruminants, and vice versa.  Hence, when feeding your horse and its ruminant companion anything other than grass or hay, it is best that this be done when they are separated.

There are a few diseases, such as rabies and ringworm, that can affect both horses and cattle, sheep, and goats.  Fortunately, however, most other diseases tend to be species-specific.  Nevertheless, for the health and welfare of each animal, it is important to have each animal regularly vet-checked.

Sheep and goats may also require additional fencing to that usually used to enclose a horse, so ensure that whatever paddock you leave your respective ruminants in has adequate security and protection for each type of animal.

At the end of the day, keeping your horse’s ruminant companion happy and healthy will be just as much your responsibility as looking after the welfare of your horse.

CO-HABITATION VS SEPARATION:

Even if co-habitation is successful, there may come a time when you will need to separate one animal from another or from the herd.  This may be due to age, to ill health, or to injury.

Older horses may experience deteriorating eyesight as well as muscle and joint issues.  They will invariably desire less frenetic activity around them or not wish to be startled by sudden movement.  Nonetheless, elderly horses should not be socially isolated.  By placing them in an adjoining paddock or with an older, less energetic companion, they can still feel connected to the other animals but be in a position to choose whether to be near them or to move away to a quieter area of the pasture.

Similarly, ill and injured horses should only be removed inasmuch as proximity to the others might impede their recovery or risk passing on their infection to their companions.   Horses are herd animals, drawing solace and security from the presence of their fellow equines.  Unless a poorly horse becomes stressed or anxious due to the activity that is going on around them, or unless there is a risk of cross-infection, that horse should remain in proximity of its herd mates.  The benefit of this approach will also mean that once the illness or injury has passed and it comes time to reintroduce that horse to the herd, it will be far easier to reintegrate him back into that fold.

Contributors, References, & Further Reading >>

Share Your Knowledge >>