Dog Products:

While dogs may not be the most materialistic creatures on the planet, there certainly are enough products out there created solely for our furry companions to fill a decent-sized pet shop, and then some.

While these products are designed with the pet pooch in mind, they are invariably targeted at the loving owner, for it is they who will part with their cash to pay for it all. The question is: Are all these products absolutely necessary? And of those that are, which one would best suit you and your dog?

Quick Links to Page Contents:

• Dog Collars & Tags
• Dog Products for Bedtime
• Dog Products for Mealtime
• Dog Food & Treats
• Dog Products for Grooming
• Dog Walking Products
• Dog Training Products
• Dog Toys

Collars & Tags:

Two items that your dog will carry with him throughout his life are a collar and tag. With regard to collars, you can choose:

• a traditional buckle collar
• a breakaway collar

The latter snaps apart more readily to avoid strangulation, should the collar snag on something. While this may sound beneficial, breakaway collars tend to be less reliable for more active breeds, and should your dog lose its collar it will also lose its tag. Not the end of the world if your dog has been microchipped, but it may make it more difficult to get hold him or return him to you as soon as possible should he be lost.

Whichever collar you choose, selecting one that is the right size is vital. You should be able to slide two fingers between your dog’s neck and the collar to ensure it is neither too tight nor too loose. Ideally you would also want sufficient length on the strap either side of the secured prong to allow for adjustments as your dog ages or as the collar becomes stretched.

You should include your name and a contact phone number – preferably a mobile number so that you are reachable even if you are not at home – on the dog tag. It is generally not advisable to put your address on the tag, as not only will it require you to change the tag should you move home but by including your phone number and address you run the risk of someone unscrupulous calling to find out if anyone were at home.  Certainly, they would know the dog is not!

Before pet microchipping became law, it was generally recommended against including your dog’s name on the tag to avoid someone else claiming your dog. Now including your dog’s name is optional, but generally deemed unnecessary.

Products for Bedtime:

As much as your dog may enjoy sleeping on your bed or sprawling across your sofa, she will still need a bed of her own. Dog beds are not only a secure space for your pooch to have a bit of downtime but can also be used in a wide range of training, such being as a place to go when there is a knock on the door or when you are entertaining guests. You may, in fact, decide to invest in multiple dog beds to be placed in different locations to suit various circumstances.

Dog beds come in all shapes and sizes, and are comprised of a range of materials, from plastic tubs, to soft fabric, to wicker baskets.

While plastic tubs tend to be easier to clean, they don’t retain warmth in cooler weather, even when a soft cushion is included. Similarly, wicker beds don’t retain warmth and are prone to be chewed on by the more orally fixated of hounds. Soft beds tend to work better, except perhaps for the insatiable chewer for whom a hardier fabric would be recommended.

Be sure to check the washing instructions, as invariably the bed will need a good clean from time to time. One way to keep your dog’s bed clean would be to drape a towel or blanket over it, which can be swapped out for another when in need of a clean.

You may wish to also purchase an outdoor bed to take with you when going out with your dog, say to the pub or to a dog-friendly restaurant. Fortunately there are plenty of water-resistant soft beds on the market that suit this purpose and are easier to roll up and transport than any of the hardier options. But again, be sure to provide a towel or blanket to keep the bed clean.

Some owners decide to crate train their puppy and then continue to use one into adulthood. This approach may work for smaller dogs, but may not be suited for the larger breeds, as there should be sufficient space for the dog to stand up and move around. A mature dog should never be enclosed in a crate, but be free to come and go as it wishes. Similarly, a crate should never be used as punishment, but be seen by your dog as a safe space to rest.

Products for Mealtime:

Your dog’s most prized possession – after the contents that you put in it – may be its food bowl, for no doubt you will see a lot of tail wagging and excitement every time you reach for it.

As with beds, bowls come in various sizes and made from a range of materials – plastic, metal, and porcelain. The latter tend to be heavier and therefore less likely to tip over, which is why they are also favoured as water bowls, but they are more prone to breaking should they be accidentally dropped. If you decide on a plastic or metal bowl, be sure to get one with a rubber base, as these will be less likely to slide or tip as your dog is eating..

All dog bowls should be washed out regularly to avoid the spread of bacteria, but be sure to rinse out and dry before the next feed.

As technology advances, so do food bowls! Nowadays you can purchase both automatic and microchip feeders for your dog. Automatic feeders are not suitable for multi-dog households and still require portion control. Never leave more food in a feeder than should be provided over the course of a normal day. Microchip feeders are suited for multi-dog households where one dog is on a prescription diet, but be aware that these feeders are not bulletproof, and when it comes to food some dogs are prepared to use their paws and teeth as ammunition! Depending on the types of dogs that you have, it may be worth considering simply supervising mealtimes more closely, rather than investing in a microchip feeder.

Food & Treats:

As a dog owner, there is a broad selection of food types to choose from, including wet food, kibble, and raw food. And within each of these types there are varying degrees of quality. Not only does the food need to satisfy your dog’s satiety but also its nutritional requirements. It is incumbent on each and every dog owner to be able to properly read pet food labels and to ensure that the food they are providing has high quality ingredients and is nutritionally balanced. Not only that, but also that their dog is fed a proportionate amount each day, for poor food management can affect both a dog’s health and wellbeing, leading to an unhappy dog and a hefty veterinary bill.

Almost as important as the food we give our dogs is with what and how often we treat our dogs. Both safety and good nutrition need to be taken into account when doing so. The more natural the treat, the better it is for our furry companion. Too often, these days, we tend to over-treat our dogs and not take these additional caloric intakes into account when feeding them their regular meals. Treats should be saved for special occasions and not fed ad-lib to our beloved pooch. In fact, the best time for treats is when they are saved for training sessions, for it is then that the dog is working for them as a reward, as opposed to simply being given as a means of distraction.

A lot of treats on the market today have little to no nutritional value. Some, in fact, can be counter to your dog’s overall health and wellbeing. On the other hand there are both natural treats and dog chews out there that promote good health, such as those that aid in the prevention of dental disease through gnawing and mastication.

For more information on types of dog food and how best to feed your dog, please refer to our ‘Dog Diet and Nutrition’ page.

Products for Grooming:

Grooming is not only for dogs that enter into the show ring, although for the range of grooming products on the market you may be excused for thinking so! It is an essential requirement for all dogs, not only for general maintenance but for their hygiene, as well. An added bonus is that it is also a great way for you to bond with your furry friend.

There’s a range of dog brushes on the market, each designed to serve a different function. Some are essential for certain breeds, while for others a slightly different combination of brushes r may be unnecessary. To summarise:

• the slicker brush – designed to untangle matted fur and remove debris
• the rake, or de-shedder – designed to remove dead hair
• soft-haired brushes – designed to smooth the coat post-grooming

In addition, there are anti-parasitic combs, designed to remove unwanted critters, such as fleas and tics, as well as grooming gloves, which help you to run your hands over the body of your dog, grooming them whilst also being able to feel for unwanted lumps or signs of injury.

And don’t forget the indispensible hair, or lint, remover – for yourself! You may find yourself in need of a general groom after a cuddle with your favourite furry chum.

Clipping a coat is generally something we would advise be reserved for the professional. But in emergencies all that is required is a pair of quality scissors, some good judgment, and a very patient pooch. We would not recommend using an electric shaver, as both the sound and vibration can spook the calmest of dogs and can result in a nasty accident or at the very least an extremely unfortunate haircut!

While there are tubs available for you to bath your dog, for the most part this is unnecessary if you happen to have a bathtub with a connected shower available to you. Shampoos specifically formulated for dogs, however, are a necessity. Do not think to use human shampoo and conditioner on your dog, as these tend to be too acidic. For more information as to which types of dog requiring a bath and how frequently, please refer to our page on ‘Dog Grooming’.

As with shampoo, so too is there dental pastes and toothbrushes designed with the pet pooch in mind. Whileljk certain dog treats and raw bones aid in the prevention of plaque buildup, the risk of both dental and gum disease can be further mitigated through the use of these products.

A specially formulated ear rinse and cotton balls are all that is required for cleaning your dog’s ears, and can help prevent any sorry excuses from your dog about not hearing the recall. Under no circumstances, though, use a cotton bud or hard implement that could perforate your dog’s eardrum!

Finally, pet nail trimmers are an optional extra – optional only if you walk your dog sufficiently over hard surfaces that will naturally wear down their claws. If you go down the route of using a nail trimmer, be sure to have a styptic pencil or powder available in case you clip too far back and cut through the quick. For more information of how to trim your dog’s claws, please refer to the page on ‘Dog Grooming’.

Dog Walking Products:

As mentioned at the outset, a collar and dog tag are absolute necessities for both the control and safety of your pet, no more so than on dog walks. Ensure that your dog is wearing both before setting out the front door!
There are different types of dog walking leads available, some serving specific functions while others providing varying degrees of control over your pet.

The standard lead is one that clips onto a collar or harness, can be made from a range of materials – from leather to nylon – and can have a single clip point or multiple clip points to provide a range of walking and tethering options.

Slip leads are designed to be both a lead and collar in one, and can work well if used correctly. That means putting around the dog’s neck in the correct configuration – so that the loop runs from under the jawline up behind the ears to the top of the neck. The best slip leads will have a stopper to prevent the loop from becoming too slack. Ensure that the stopper is positioned at the top of the neck and that there is sufficient slack in the loop to run two fingers through – as you would when fitting a collar. Depending on which side you are standing in relation to your dog, have the loop run from the top of the neck down and around the neck away from you and then back up so that the remaining line is facing in your direction with the join at the top of the dog’s head. It is important that the dog does not pull ahead of you, as you would then run the risk of the hoop slipping down the neck and when tightened the dog will choke, so ensure you’ve practiced sufficient heel-work with your dog before taking him for a walk with a slip lead.

Long line leads are designed primarily for training purposes, though they are equally good in giving untrained dogs more scope for freedom with the security of being able to get hold of them. Long line leads should always be attached to a harness, never to a collar, in case they should catch on something whilst the dog is running, causing the dog to come to an abrupt halt. In order to retrieve a dog on a long line that is paying no heed to your recall, step onto the line and trace your steps along its length until you reach the dog. Do not pick the line up and try reeling the dog in. Ideally, you would reserve the use of a long line for training or for untrained dogs in the park. Whilst walking your dog on a lead you would use a standard lead or slip lead.

Finally, there are extendable (or retractable) leads, which are technically long lines housed in a casing that can be fixed at a set length or allowed to give your dog more scope to roam. They are immensely popular with dog walkers, but they are not something that we would ever recommend. Leads are designed to give you control over your dog, and for good lead training your dog requires consistency. Extendable leads reduce both control and consistency in relation to you and your pet. It allows the dog to roam wherever he pleases until such time as you jerk the line or reel him back in, no doubt at a time when he has found something of great interest to him (and potentially of immense disgust to you). The lead becomes a channel for poor communication, as well as a potential for increased frustration to your pet.

Just as dog walkers seem to love extendable leads, so too do they seem to prefer harnesses over neck collars. A big reason for this is the perceived wisdom that collars can cause choking or even strangulation of dogs that pull. But while they certainly do prevent strain on the necks of avid pullers, harnesses in fact can ultimately make the dog pull even harder, exacerbating an already bad situation for the owner and reducing their control. Our recommendation would be to walk your dog using a lead attached to a collar, and reserve the harness for when training with a long-line lead.

There are a range of anti-pulling devices available for the over eager dog, the most popular being the halter, or halti, which consists of two loops, the larger of which goes around the neck and the smaller loop around the muzzle. The lead is then connected to a ring situated under the dog’s chin. It may take your dog a little while to get used to wearing a halter, and will probably paw at it and rub its muzzle on your leg or along the ground in an effort to remove it. Perseverance is key, but so too is introducing the halter to the dog in stages and through positive reinforcement (see our page on ‘Training Your Dog’), so that the dog does not view it as a punishment device but as just another component to their daily walk.

If your dog has a fight or bite history, then it is definitely worth getting him muzzled for his walks. There are broadly two types of dog muzzles on the market – basket muzzles, of which the Baskerville Dog Muzzle is just one popular example, and occlusion muzzles, which tend to be made of fabric and wrap completely around the dog’s muzzle to keep it shut.

As with harnesses, it is important to introduce the muzzle to your dog both gradually and positively, so that they see it not so much as a punishment device but as a sign they’re about to go on a lovely walk. For more information on positive reinforcement and associational training, please visit our page on ‘Training Your Dog’.

Finally, the one indispensable item you will find as you embark on your dog walk is the poo bag. Actually, pluralise that, as you should always carry more than you think you will need! If there is one thing that gets the backs up of every park goer who does not own a dog, it is coming upon – usually by stepping in – left behind litter. And it gets the backs up of every dog owner who picks up after their dog, too! So unless you’re happy for your pooch to become dogona non grata in your local park, please ensure you always have a ready supply or roll of poo bags at your disposal.

We recommend Earth-friendly, biodegradable bags, which are better for the environment than standard poo bags. And while you may be tempted to go cheap, please consider the thickness and durability of the bag before buying. There is nothing worse than suffering a bag breakage whilst picking up after your pet!

Dog training products:

When it comes to training your dog, there are a wide range of tools, treats, and toys on the market to help get your pet on the path to obedience.

We have mentioned both the slip lead and the long-line lead in the previous section on dog walking products. Two other items that can be used for training – preferably under the supervision and instruction of a qualified dog trainer – are the choke chain and the half-check collar. As with a slip lead, if improperly used both these types of collars can cause damage to your dog and so should be treated with care.  Choke collars should be worn in a manner similar to slip leads, as described above, while with half-check collars should be fitted so that the two rings at the back meet whilst still allowing a bit of breathing room between the collar and neck. Neither device should be used for jerking, tugging, or choking, and so should ideally only be worn by dogs with a sufficient grounding in heel work so that only minimal corrections are required.

Both choke collars and half-check collars are what we would call part of the aversive training toolkit, in that they can be used to cause something unpleasant for your dog to feel. Other aversive training devices include anti-bark, shock, and spray collars. The problem with these devices is that they only inhibit behaviour, as opposed to training the dog to desist by themselves. Hence while it may seem that the issue has been quickly dealt with, in effect the problem has only been suppressed, and may in fact worsen owing to the dog’s feelings of frustration and agitation.

This is not to say that there is no room for the use of such devices in dog training. For instance, for dogs with incredibly poor recall, a spray collar might mean the difference between life and death if it ever got off the lead and was charging toward a main road. However, the over-proliferation of these devices and the ease of their use has led to their mis-use, and has resulted in proposed legislation to ban them, which would be a shame. It would be far better that they be treated as prescription-only devices, to be used only in consultation with a qualified dog trainer. To ban them completely would be to remove an important training tool from the trainer’s toolkit, one that could under certain circumstances mean the difference between life and death for the dog.

The opposite of aversive dog training is what is called positive reward training, and for this all that is required is a clicker and a pouch bag filled with treats. A clicker is simply a device that elicits a sharp clicking sound that acts as a marker, while the trainer’s voice, hand signals, or a dog whistle, acts as the cue. Treats should be highly desired by the dog – what we call a high motivator – so while you might consider using standard dog treats that you can find in any pet store, it might be better to break up some cooked chicken fillets or cocktail sausages. Whatever you decide, ensure that the treats are small enough so that you are not over feeding your dog, while at the same time large enough to make it worth their while. A good rule of thumb would be to have each treat no larger than your fingernail. Treat pouches are great, as you can clip them to your belt and have those treats readily available, instead of buried in your pocket where they might break up or spoil your coat.

For those dogs not easily won over by the most tempting of treats, we would recommend you use a highly prized toy, perhaps a tug toy if they’re into tug-of-war, or a squeaky toy if they are enticed by the noise. However, that toy should be used solely for training and never let loose for general play. Be sure that the toy is durable and suitable for all weather, as a lot of your dog’s training will take place outside, even in inclement weather conditions.

Dog Toys:

Toys come in all shapes and sizes, manufactured out of a range of materials, from fabric to plastic to rubber. Some are hard and durable while others are soft and short-lived. So what toys might be best for your dog? Bear in mind, your dog won’t care less whether you buy one shaped like a dinosaur or a duck, what will matter to him most is the feel of it in his mouth, the sound it makes as he chomps down on it, and the interaction it brings to him with you the owner.

A lot of dogs like to eviscerate their toys, particularly soft toys filled with stuffing. While this is mostly true for hunting breeds, in fact any dog left alone with a toy for too long might take to gnawing at it out of boredom. Very soon an expensive toy can be reduced to so much tattered rags and piles of polyester stuffing. The item that can cause most risk to a dog is actually the plastic squeak within the toy, for it will be the element that will attract him the most and is most likely to cause a blockage should it be ingested. Therefore all play should be monitored, if not for your pet’s health then certainly to spare your wallet!

While leaving your dog alone with a toy for too long is never a great idea, there are certain toys specifically designed to be boredom busters. Normally they come in the form of a puzzle, in which food is placed and the dog has to work out how to extract the hidden morsel.  Some require a degree of ingenuity and dexterity on the part of your pet, while others, like a Kong, simply demand persistence. These toys can also serve a purpose for those dogs that consume their food too quickly, as it requires them to work to earn their reward. Even then, though, their use should be carefully monitored so that the dog does not come to associate eating with a sense of frustration.

When selecting a toy for your dog, it is worth considering its breed and hence its natural proclivities. Certain breeds are more predisposed to hunt and chase than to retrieve, so don’t necessarily expect those avid hunters to always return that thrown tennis ball! Those with a high degree of motion acuity, such as a Border Collie, might enjoy catching a frisbee, instead. And a lap dog may tend toward none of the above!
At the end of the day, the purpose of play is to entertain the mind, exercise the body, and to engage in social interaction with you, the owner. So whatever toys you buy, if they satisfy these three criteria, then its purpose has been served.

Toys for Indoors:

Indoor toys tend more toward those being bought for distraction and self-entertainment, although those that can also provide a degree of interactivity with you, the owner, will always make that plaything more enticing for your dog.

As noted above, you can easily spend a lot of your hard-earned dosh on cuddly toys that you find completely adorable, only to have your pooch tear it apart in five minutes and then gaze up at you with that “What’s next?” look on its face. What’s next is you hoovering up piles of polystyrene fluff and torn pieces of fabric for the next five minutes!

The lesson here is that there are an awful lot of plush toys marketed for dogs but targeted at owners that simply will not satisfy the wear-and-tear test that your mutt will put it through. You would be far better off going for that more durable, albeit less adorable, stuffed toy, from which your furry friend will gain hours more fun.

Toys for Outdoors:

Outdoor toys tend more toward those being bought to facilitate both interaction and exercise. However, the greatest treat you can give your dog is simply time outdoors. For some dogs that is enough, and any treat or toy that coincides with that time is a minor distraction to the far greater diversions the outdoors has to offer. For others, the outdoors is indelibly linked with the opportunity for games, social interaction, and quality time with their human companions. This is part genetic – borne of their breed-line and temperament – but is also tied to their socialisation to both humans and other canines as a puppy.

Some popular outdoor games include ball throwers and tennis balls, frisbees, tug-of-war ropes, as well as agility and obstacle course products. Tennis balls with throwers, or launchers, tend to be the most popular, as they appeal to a broad range of dogs, offering both exercise and interaction for your pooch, but be sure to have a few spare tennis balls in your pocket, as it is quite easy for a ball to get lost in the long grass or misplaced when a distracting scent steers your mutt in a completely different direction. Sometimes, though, this can work in your favour. If you have an avid hunter, you may in fact find that he or she will come trotting back to you with those very balls that others have misplaced!

Because balls for dogs tend to be so easily lost, those that come with launchers and throwers tend not to be of the best quality. In fact, you will probably be incredibly lucky to get through an entire walk without that initial ball falling apart, being ripped in two, or even squashed so that it no longer fits the thrower. For those tennis ball furry fanatics who love to chase a ball all walk long, we would definitely recommend investing in some genuine tennis balls. They will last a lot longer, giving your pooch a lot more run for your money.

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