GROOMING YOUR HORSE:

Regular grooming is a vital part of horse care as it promotes good hygiene and allows the groomer to assess the horse’s overall health.  It is also a great way for handlers to bond with their steed.  Grooming should take place both before and after turnout or a riding session.  In so doing, it not only allows a horse to look his best and be comfortable throughout the day but it can help a horse to warm up before exercise and to cool down after an extensive workout.

Grooming not only entails brushing your horse’s coat or hosing him down to get rid of saddle sweat.  It also means clipping his fur, checking his ears and his teeth, and performing some basic hoof work, although some of these may only need to be done on a seasonal basis.

Some aspects of grooming, particularly those that entail hosing down or hoof work, may cause tension or distress to a horse, and in these instance you will want to desensitise him to the process in order that he at least tolerates, if not totally accepts, the process.  For tips on how to work with such sensitive steeds, feel free to visit our page on ‘Training Your Horse’.

Quick Links to Page Contents:

• Benefits of Grooming Your Horse
• Brushing your Horse
• Clipping & De-Shedding Your Horse
• Hosing & Sponging Down Your Horse
• Dental Work
• Cleaning the Ears
• Hoof Care & Farriering

BENEFITS OF GROOMING YOUR HORSE:

Grooming is an important ingredient in both building and maintaining the bond between human and horse.  In fact, it has been shown that a horse’s heart rate is significantly decreased when their lower neck is being groomed.  As such, this is generally a good place to start any grooming session, especially in cases where a new or nervous horse is involved.

But grooming provides more than just a calm and clean horse.  It also helps to maintain a healthy skin and coat, reduces the chances of sores and infections, while giving the groomer the opportunity to check for cuts and scratches, lumps, heat and swelling, and lameness.

The final benefit to grooming is that it not only keeps the horse but also the tack clean.

BRUSHING YOUR HORSE:

There are several types of brushes and combs that are commonly used for grooming a horse, each designed to suit a different purpose.  These include:

• Currycomb
• Dandy brush
• Water brush
• Stiff-bristled brush
• Soft brush
• Rag or towel
• Sweat scraper
• Mane & tail brushes/combs
• Sponges

Currycombs:

These are used on the body of the horse only in order  to loosen dirt and hair as well as to stimulate the skin to produce natural oils.  The groomer will either use a currycomb in a circular movement or in short, rapid strokes in the direction of the hair.  Those that are used on horses have plastic or rubber teeth.  Metal currycombs are used to clean the grooming brushes.  The latter should not be used on any horse but only on the grooming tools.

Dandy brush:

Dandy brushes serve a similar purpose to currycombs but can be used on a horse’s legs, as well.  These may double as a water brush.

Water brush:

A stiff-bristled brush that can be used to apply water to a horse’s coat, mane or tail in order to dampen or wash those areas.

Stiff-bristled brush:

These are used to remove the detritus that has been loosened by the currycomb.  Again, these are used in short strokes in line with the direction of the hair, working from the front to the rear  of the horse.

Soft brush:

Dust and other fine particles are then removed with a soft brush, which may also add a shine to the horse’s coat.  Large soft brushes are suited to a horse’s body, while smaller soft brushes may be used on a horse’s face and ears, being careful to avoid the eyes.  While some horses enjoy having their ears brushed, others detest it.  Be mindful of which category your horse falls into.

Rag or towel:

Referred to as a Stable rubber, these linen cloths are used, often when dampened, to wipe over the horse’s body to provide a final polish to the coat.

Sweat scraper:

These are used to wipe off sweat or excess water from a horse.  While they come in a range of styles, they tend to resemble a window squeegee but with a curved rubber head.

Mane & tail brushes/combs:

These brushes are used to brush the mane and tail of a horse.  Horses with short, pulled manes generally have them combed with a wide-toothed comb, instead.  A Pulling comb is used to prepare a horse for braiding these areas.  There are also spray-on liquids available to help detangle long hair.

Sponges:

These are useful to have not only for horses who show an aversion to being sprayed with a hose  but also when cleaning sensitive parts of the body, such as beneath the dock and around the genitals.  It may also be easier to sponge down a horse’s legs than to wash them from a hosepipe.

It is extremely important that all grooming tools be kept clean, as dirt particles can otherwise be brushed into cuts or scrapes, which can then cause an infection.  Other grooming equipment such as clippers, shedding blades, and hoof picks will be discussed below within the applicable section.

CLIPPING & DE-SHEDDING YOUR HORSE:

Horses grow a thick coat in order to protect themselves in cold climes, but not all regions suffer extremely cold winters, and even some summer months can be too much for a horse that has shed its winter coat.  In these instances, and depending on the level of exertion of the individual horse, it may become necessary to clip him in order to reduce sweat and to keep him clean and comfortable.  If the weather is variable, one can then rug the horse during the cold snaps.

Habituating the horse to the clippers is essential.  You will want to introduce the clippers to him slowly, first without turning it on and presenting it to him for him to sniff.  Reward his curiosity and interest.  Once you have achieved this, turn the clippers on at a distance.  Reward him only when he relaxes.  With the clippers turned off, touch the clippers gently against those parts of his body that you will be clipping.  Take your time, be on the lookout for any fidgeting or tail swishes that may imply that to be a sensitive area, and reward him again when he relaxes.

Ensure that the clipper blades are sharp and are well lubricated before beginning.  Dull blades can pull hair and extend clipping time, which can also lead to blades becoming warmer.  All of these outcomes can lead to discomfort and a distressed horse.

Never clip around the head or face, especially any of the whiskers and long hairs on the horse’s muzzle or around his eyes.  These are extremely important for his ability to sense objects that are close-up, and such actions may cause stress or injury to the animal.

Even if you don’t intend to clip your horse, you will want to help him to shed his Winter coat at the turn of Spring so that the loose fur doesn’t end up covering his stall or interfering with the tack.  A shedding blade can help you do this, either by folding the blade so that it forms a loop to use with a single hand or by grasping one handle in each hand and gently running it over the coat.

HOSING & SPONGING DOWN YOUR HORSE:

Just as you will need to habituate your horse to the clippers, so you will need to desensitise him to being hosed down with water.  It’s not the water itself that is the problem but the long, scary hosepipe, as well as the sound of water gushing out, that is liable to cause him to panic.  In fact, just as with the clippers there are three elements that need to be desensitised, namely: sight, sound, and touch.

When you first introduce your horse to the hose have him walk past it, and reward him for noticing but not reacting to it.  Have him examine the hosepipe at his leisure, praising him for his curiosity.  Once he has relaxed, turn the hosepipe on at a distance, and then have him walk past it again.  Next, turn the water off, and gradually introduce the hose to his body, touching him lightly with it against his shoulder.  Take your time, and reward any sign of relaxation.  When you do begin to hose him down, start with the spray at half-strength, using a blend of hosing and sponging.  You can gradually increase the strength of the jet of water as he becomes accustomed to the process.

Hosing or sponging down your horse can serve two purposes.  It is not only useful to clean both the dust and the sweat off your horse but it is also a means by which you can help your horse to cool down.  Cold hosing is also useful when there is inflamed soft tissue in the legs or when there is swelling due to standing in a stall or a trailer.  Any excess heat may be dissipated through such a process.  It is important to emphasise, though, that where the cause of lameness is unclear or when it is sustained that a proper veterinary examination should take place.

DENTAL WORK:

A horse’s teeth should be checked by a professional equine dentist at least once or twice a year, or more frequently for those horses that have pre-existing dental conditions.

This should not prevent a handler from giving their horse’s teeth a quick check once every two or three months for any sign of uneven wear or abnormal overgrowth.  By training the horse to submit to such cursory examinations it will also help him to endure the more intensive probing by the equine dentist and the rasping of his teeth in order to smooth any sharp edges that may have developed since his last check-up.

More frequent check-ups and more dental work will be required for those horses who’s incisors do not meet their counterpart in the opposite jaw, as in either instance this will result in an overbite.  Horse’s suffering from this condition are referred to as either parrot-mouthed or sow-mouthed, depending on whether it is the upper or lower jaw that is longer.  Generally, though, it is the inside edge of the lower molars and the outside edge of the upper molars that tend to exhibit signs of sharpened edges, owing to the fact that a horse’s upper jaw tends to be slightly wider than its lower jaw and hence, which produces an uneven wearing of the teeth when the horse grinds its food.

CLEANING THE EARS:

A horse’s ears do not require regular cleaning, however it is advisable every once in a while to give them a gentle rub with a soft, damp towel or cloth in order to clean out any detritus and to check for lumps, sores, or signs of infection, such as aural plague.  Clean only the outer portion of the ear, as you do not want to push material deeper inside.

If you are applying fly repellant spray to your horse, be sure to avoid spraying the ears and use only a roll on repellant instead.

Remember that while some horses enjoy having their ears rubbed and inspected, other horses detest this, so proceed with caution.  If your horse is fearful or skittish, it is probably best not to use a step stool to reach the ears and to have your horse’s halter held by another person as opposed to on cross ties to avoid damage to equipment or harm to yourself or the horse.

Horses that are loath to have their ears examined or cleaned would probably benefit from desensitisation coupled with positive reward and target training.  For more information on these and other training techniques, feel free to check out or page on ‘Training Your Horse’.

HOOF CARE & FARRIERING:

A horse should have its hooves picked and cleaned both before and after each ride, or at least every other day when not being ridden.  For this you will need a hoof pick as well as a brush.  Some picks include a brush on their handle to save you from having to switch between tools.

Ensure that the horse is calm and is also safely restrained.  It is certainly a good idea that you have trained your horse to accept each stage of the process, from allowing you to lift each leg to your cleaning out each hoof, and that he understands that this is the task that you are about to perform.  It is also advised that you always begin with a front leg, working your way back and around the horse to the other side, taking care when crossing behind the horse.

As you face the horse’s back end, bend down and run your hand down the back of his leg and gently squeeze above the fetlock.  Give the horse the opportunity to shift his weight, or you may need to gently press your body against his side to indicate your desire that he do so.  Support the raised hoof in your hand closest to the horse without pulling it out from under him while you use your other hand to pick at the hoof.  When it comes to hind legs, these can also be rested against your thigh while you work.

First remove material from the frog using the brush.  Under no circumstance  use the pick, as this is a particularly sensitive part of the horse and a pick can cause pain and serious injury.  Having done that, gently clear any dirt or grit around the frog using the edge of the pick, working from heel to toe, using the point of the pick only to dislodge any stones that may have become trapped there.  The best way to hold the pick is for your thumb to be facing up while the pick is extending downward beyond your baby finger.  Scrape in short, even strokes, being careful not to apply too much pressure.  Also be gentle around the inside wall of the hoof.  While this is an area where grit and stones can easily become stuck, especially under the shoe, it is another sensitive area for the horse.

While you have the hoof up, inspect it for any signs of cracks or moist discharge.  Place your palm against the frog to check that it is not hot, for this could be a sign of infection.  Also look out for any sign of thrush, evidenced by a deep crevice and sometimes accompanied by a black ooze either in the centre or the periphery of the frog.

If your horse is wearing a shoe, this is a good time to also check that the shoe is secure and that none of the clenches (nails) have risen or become loose.  Gently lower the hoof and observe whether the horse is comfortable to maintain his weight on it or if he exhibits any sign of discomfort.

Your horse will need to show similar patience and a willingness to yield to a farrier, so taking the time to train your horse to raise his hooves upon instruction and to be patient during their examination will be time well spent.  While you don’t want your horse to buck or bolt, neither do you want to stress him, so unless there is a risk of him biting you or the farrier allow for some slack on the rope or the cross ties so that the horse can be kept comfortable and yet safe.

As with hoof picking, when shoeing a horse for the first time allow the horse to inspect each of the tools and items before commencing, and give the horse the opportunity to see what is happening.  There are two means by which a farrier will shoe a horse.

Hot shoeing occurs when a shoe is pressed against the hoof while it is still hot from the forge, making it more malleable and thus allowing the farrier to shape it before to the hoof where it will be fitted.  While there are no nerve endings in the outer section of the hoof – where clenches will be driven in to hold the shoe in place, as well – nevertheless serious sores and abscesses can result if performed incorrectly, so only a qualified farrier should perform this task.

Cold shoeing is the other method by which a horse is shod.  This approach allows only for small adjustments to the basic shape of the shoe, especially for those made out of a hard metal such as steel, and so is generally reserved for shoes that are either brittle or made of an inherently more malleable material.

Horseshoes can be fabricated from a variety of materials, from aluminium to copper, and even rubber and plastic.  Steel is the generally preferred option as these tend to last longest.  However, this durability can bring with it certain disadvantages, for steel shoes can prevent the natural working of the hoof, limiting its expansion and contraction as it impacts the ground.  The frog within the hoof is there to help absorb these shocks, and without it the frog may shrink, which can also affect the flow of blood to and from the hoof.  For this reason it is important that hooves that are not been sufficiently worn be filed down and that horses be given the opportunity to be ‘barefoot’ on occasion.

For those horses that remain as ‘barefoot’, handlers should keep an eye out for excess or uneven wear of the horn.  There are rubber boots that are available to help those horses who are suffering sensitivity either to being unused to being barefoot or because of overly worn hooves.

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