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Cats are great groomers, being absolutely fastidious about their appearance. In fact, it’s estimated that the average cat may spend a third to half of its waking hours performing its ablutions. That is a lot of washing!
It is also a fairly ritualised process, with most cats beginning with a face-wash, licking their front paws and then using them to wipe at their cheeks and head, before moving on to licking their forelimbs and flanks, and finally moving on to their hind limbs, anogential area, and tail. Some cats will begin with their face but then reverse this process, moving straight down to the hind legs and flanks, before moving back up to their neck and chest.
Why is this important? It is worth taking note of your cat’s pattern of washing so that when you do step in with some grooming assistance, you can better mimic his preferred routine.
But grooming your cat is more than occasionally brushing its fur. Grooming a cat includes:
Not all grooming has to happen in the same session. In fact, even brushing can be broken down into shorter sessions. The most important thing is that your cat feels relaxed and happy during the process, as an unhappy cat will soon let you know! Warning signs to look out for include tail flicking, ears flattening, and whiskers becoming stiff and turning forward or being tightly pulled against its face.
It is important that a cat learns to be groomed from an early age. Some may show resistance or fear to being groomed, especially bathed, but it is important to persevere with them, to earn their trust, and gradually win them over. Your cat may be doing fine on its own right now, but there may come a time when it is elderly or infirm and it will need your assistance, so it is best to get it used to your help while it is still young.
For tips on how to train your cat to at least tolerate a grooming session, feel free to visit our page on ‘Training Your Cat’.
The act of grooming not only removes dead fur before it’s shed, thereby limiting the amount scattered throughout your home, but it also reduces the amount of fur that your cat may swallow as it washes itself. Invariably, cats do end up swallowing some fur, which they will cough up as fur balls, but if a substantial amount passes through the stomach it could get lodged in the intestine and cause a serious blockage.
Combing and brushing your cat gives you the chance to check for and remove parasites, such as fleas, mites, and ticks. It also provides the opportunity to familiarise yourself with your cat’s body, so that should a lump ever develop or an injury occur, you will be able to note it and seek appropriate veterinary advice. Similarly, any sudden weight loss or weight gain will be quickly spotted and can be addressed.
At the same time, be sure to check teeth, gums, eyes and ears for evidence of infection, inflammation, or unusual discharge. Any such signs should be reported to the vet so that it can be investigated and dealt with.
Grooming should be a bonding experience between owner and pet. It is, in essence, a form of tactile communication, showing your cat how much you care.
Cats and Cleanliness:
Keeping kitty’s paws clean should not be a task left solely to your cat. Cats are fastidious washers, and they often lick their paws. So be careful about what household cleaning agents you apply around the home and properly wipe clean all chemical agents from surfaces that your cat may then tread on.
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Cats tend to shed biannually – in the Spring, when they lose their winter undercoat, and in the fall, as they grow a new coat in preparation for the coming cold. That is not to say that cats should only be groomed twice a year. Long-haired cats are prone to matted, tangled fur unless groomed regularly, and both long- and short-haired cats will collect debris in their fur that should be brushed out. Either way you cut it (or brush it), at a bare minimum short-haired cats should be groomed on a weekly basis, while long-haired cats – particularly those allowed outdoors – should be brushed daily.
Different brushes and combs serve different purposes, so it is important to know which tool to use, depending on the job (and cat) at hand.
Typically rectangular in shape with fine wire bristles, the slicker brush is designed to untangle matted fur, as well as to remove debris and dead hairs from medium- to long-coated cats. They are generally good to use on all but the shortest and smoothest of coats.
Rakes are aptly named, because they resemble the garden rake in being T-shaped with a line of prongs designed to comb through the cat’s fur to remove dead hair and collect debris and dirt. There are a wide variety of rakes, but they can generally be sub-divided into two categories – those designed specifically for the undercoat and those for general use.
Undercoat rakes work primarily on the undercoat, leaving a healthy topcoat, and should be used for long-coated breeds with two coats. It is important here to select the right length of prongs in order that they reach the undercoat without irritating the cat’s skin beneath.
The popular Furminator is an example of a more general-use rake, which can be used on a variety of fur, but here it is important to not over-groom or to tug on matted hair too harshly. Cats have very thin skin that can easily become irritated when brushed too vigorously.
To this we would add those brushes that look like slicker brushes but have plastic nodules on each tip. Don’t expect to remove too much dead hair with these tools. They are purely designed to smooth out the fur post-grooming. They are the salve to the grooming session. Gloves are great to help you to feel your pet’s body for any hidden lumps. They are also extremely useful to use with kittens and cats not used to being groomed.
If you’re worried about parasitic infection, then these combs are the best mechanism to check for and remove unwanted vermin. They are not, however, the solution for removing excess fur, as in order to do so you would need to use the comb more vigorously, which would not only irritate the cat’s thin skin, but kitty as well!
Removing Fleas & Ticks:
Flea combs are a type of fine comb with teeth that are close together in order to catch fleas and eggs. When it comes to ticks, however, it is best to use a tick remover or tweezers in order to ensure you remove the complete parasite and not leave the head behind.
© Sruik / courtesy of Shutterstock.com
In short, do not rely on one single brush or comb to do the job. Generally it is advised to begin with a fine comb to loosen old fur and dead skin before moving on to a slicker brush, rake, or pin-tipped brush to remove the dead hair and debris, and then to smooth down the coat with a soft-haired brush.
As noted above, cats tend to show a distinct preference for the order in which they clean themselves. In order to insert yourself into their washing regimen it is best to try to mimic their preferred pattern of behaviour.
Choose a time when your cat is happy and relaxed. While making soothing sounds, run the comb along the side of your cat’s head, against the cheek and beneath the ear, being careful not to interfere with the cat’s whiskers. Then run it over the forehead and up over the top of the head. Your cat will most likely respond by getting up to head bump the comb or rub himself against you. That is a good sign. You have him engaged!
Next move across the shoulders and flanks, saving the underbelly until last. The undercarriage is the most vulnerable part of a cat, and he may instinctively try to claw or bite you or the comb. Don’t worry if you don’t manage to finish in a single session. It is better to leave your cat happy and relaxed than disgruntled with your grooming efforts!
If you do come across tangled or matted fur, you may try to comb them out, but as already stated, a cat’s skin is thin and you do not want to tug too harshly. Use a pair of scissors to gently cut the tangled lumps away, being extra careful not to cut the skin. Always have the scissor’s tips facing away from the body of the cat. If the matted fur is too close to the cat’s body, you may wish to visit a professional groomer to have it safely removed.
Contrary to what you might read elsewhere, cats do not require baths! Their fur contains its own natural oils, and with frequent washing you can bring them into imbalance or strip them away completely. If you maintain a good brushing regimen, as outlined above, bathtub time should not become necessary.
You may decide to bath your cat if its fur becomes greasy or shows evidence of dandruff, but be aware that you may only be masking a symptom of a far greater problem, for these may be evidence of nutritional deficiency or an allergy, a lack of hydration, or parasites. The only time that bathing would be warranted is if your cat came in with so much dir t that even a brushing session will not get it all out.
In the unlikely event that your cat does need a bath, be sure to close all windows and avenues of escape from the bathroom, place a non-slip mat in the sink or bath for your cat to stand on, and bathe him in water that is close to room temperature, being sure not to spray or pour the water near to his face.
Do not use human or dog shampoo, only cat shampoo and conditioner. Again, avoiding the face and ears, lather the shampoo over the offending area, massaging it gently into the fur, and then rinse thoroughly. Repeat with the cat conditioner, and then towel dry.
Gingivitis and periodontal disease are two of the more common ailments seen by veterinary surgeons, and can be costly to you and your pet, both in terms of financial cost and quality of life. By feeding your cat hard biscuits, or kibble, as the primary basis of its diet, as well as providing the occasional feline dental treat, you will be reducing the opportunity for formation of plaque on your cat’s teeth.
However, none of these will completely prevent plaque from forming, and to that end getting your pet used to frequent tooth and gum brushing from an early age will certainly help to maintain good dental hygiene later in its life. Be sure to use only toothpaste specifically formulated for cats, as human toothpaste contains high levels of fluoride, which can make your cat ill.
Cats that are most at risk from developing dental problems are those that are fed primarily soft or canned food, which reduces the need for mastication, as well as very short-nosed, or brachycephalic, breeds, whose reduced jaw size and tooth gap predisposes them to the buildup of plaque.
Cats are avid cleaners, but there are certain breeds that are prone to eye issues, while others may need a little extra help when it comes to their ears and around their nostrils.
Flat-faced cats are prone to chronic eye tearing while Siamese cats often will develop ‘sleep’ in the corner of their eyes. Simply wipe these gently away using a soft, moist cloth, taking care not to touch the eyeball. Try to use separate parts of the cloth around each eye.
Similarly, cats ears should be cleaned using a soft, wet cloth or fresh cotton wool. There are cat ear cleaners on the market, as well, but if using these be sure that the liquid is at room temperature before applying to your cat’s ears, using the dosage as recommended on the label.
Place the drops into your cat’s ear, and then gently massage the base of the ear to allow the drops to cat the interior of the ear canal. Release your cat to let it shake its head, as this will help dislodge any dirt or wax, and then use a moist cotton ball to wipe the interior of the ear, without pressing in too deep. Literally rinse and repeat with the other ear!
Cotton Balls vs Cotton Buds:
Never use a cotton bud, or Q-tip, as you risk pushing the wax buildup further into the ear canal. Furthermore, buds can penetrate more deeply into the ear and can damage the eardrum. Rather use moist cotton balls while still being carful not to penetrate too deeply into your cat’s ear.
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Signs that your cat may be suffering from ear mites include head tilting or shaking, pawing at the ears, and a sensitivity to being touched around the ears. You may notice an unusual odour coming from the ears and a dry, black discharge or gritty specks when cleaning the ear canals.
No matter how much trouble they get into, most cats at least know how to keep their noses clean in the literal sense. Some, however, will develop some dried nasal discharge. Moisten a cotton ball in some warm water and gently wipe these crusts away.
As with everything else in grooming, cats are pretty good at maintaining healthy claws. By scratching and kneading at surfaces, and by pulling off older keratin sheaths with their incisors, they are able to expose their new, sharper claws.
Unlike dogs, a cat’s claws are retractable, and when not being put to good use – such as pawing, clawing, or gripping – they are drawn into a protective sheath to keep them from unnecessary wear-and-tear and blunting.
The one aspect a cat cannot control is overgrowth, and this is where the trimming of claws becomes necessary. Older cats may also find it more difficult to shed their keratin sheaths, and so human intervention may also be required. But don’t wait until your cat becomes old before you intervene. As with all aspects of grooming, it is best to get your cat used to the process while it is still young.
Sensitivities to Sight, Sound, & Pressure:
There are three aspects of claw trimming that a cat needs to get used to:
Each of these can be dealt with through a gradual process of desensitisation and positive reward.
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Introduce your cat to the clippers and let him sniff them. Treat him at the same time, so that he associates the clippers with good things. Next, touch the clippers against each of his paws and gently apply pressure to each of his toe pads in turn to unsheathe each claw, but without clipping. Once he is comfortable with this, hold a stick of dry spaghetti near to his paw and clip the spaghetti so that he gets used to the sharp sound. Compliment and treat him, and then tell the rest of the family they will be having short spaghetti for dinner!
When it comes to actually performing the clipping, rest your cat gently on your lap, or if you have him on a table then bend over him from behind so that he can only retreat into you. If you have performed the desensitisation exercise as per above, this should hopefully prove unnecessary, but what you certainly want to avoid is having a tug-of-war with cat over his own paw!
Gently press down on each toe pad with your thumb and forefinger to unsheathe each claw. Only cut the tip of each claw, being careful not to trim too far back and risk cutting through the quick, which is the narrow pink line visible on the inside of the claw that contains nerves and blood vessels. Have a styptic pencil or powder on hand just in case you do accidentally clip too far back and cause bleeding from this sensitive area.
You should consider inspecting your cat’s claws every ten to fourteen days, trimming them if necessary.
As stated at the offset, a lot of cats do not enjoy the grooming process. Certainly the trimming of claws can be a particularly stressful experience, especially if there has been a prior negative incident. Having a family member or friend that your cat trusts be present to distract it, offering plenty of praise and treats, will go a long way to ensuring things go smoothly for all concerned. You can also condition your cat to learn to tolerate grooming sessions through habituation. For more information on classical conditioning and habituation, please refer yourself to our page on ‘Training Your Cat’.
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